Hiking in Kazbegi

We got up at a fairly reasonable time for our first full day in Kazbegi and had some delicious breakfast at our guest-house. Nazi's home cooking was awesome! We had really fluffy omelettes and there was lots of bread and cheese available. We also got to try Nazi's famous home-made apple jam which was very tasty. I put sugar on my omelette as I thought it tasted like eggy bread and I always put sugar on that. Everyone thought I was crazy but then what's new? We made some big sandwiches to take hiking with us for lunch and then emerged out into the fresh mountain air. 

It was cloudy but still quite sunny when we left the homestay to climb up the steep slope to the Gergeti Sameba (Trinity) Church. We hoped to also hike along the ridge line to the glacier beyond the church but, inevitably, the weather soon changed for the worse. Our short walk around the village the previous day had shown us how unfit we were (especially at that altitude where the air felt so thin) so we decided to take it easy on ourselves and take the longer but more gradual path up to the church. We walked through some woods past an interesting little cemetery with unusual headstones  that were life sized carved sculptures of the departed's head. By the time we got to the cemetery it had started raining. 

Our intended destination for the day, the Gergeti Sameba church, perched on top of the mountains above Kazbegi.

Along the Georgian Military Highway to Kazbegi

Every Georgian we'd met so far on our travels had told us that we had to visit Kazbegi because it was the "most beautiful place in Georgia" and had very "healthy air". The original name for this tiny town was Stepantsminda but it was renamed Kazbegi in 1925 during Soviet rule after the famous Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi who was born there. In 2006, the town officially reverted to its original name but pretty much everybody we met still referred to it as Kazbegi including the marshrutka drivers who drove visitors up there. 

Kazbegi is a small town up in the mountains of northern Georgia near the border with Russia. It's located about 1700m above sea level in the Greater Caucasus mountains and is very small with a population of less than 2000. It's scenic location makes it a popular destination for hikers and mountaineering enthusiasts and I'd already seen plenty of beautiful photos of the place long before I even arrived in Georgia so I was very excited about going there armed with my camera. 

Kazbegi town nestled among the Caucasus mountains with its most famous landmark the Gergeti Trinity Church perched on the ridge above it.

Day trip to Davit Gareja

We got up quite early on our first day back in Georgia after our brief visit to Armenia to go to Davit Gareja, a Georgian Orthodox cave monastery complex near the border with Azerbaijan. The complex is made up of lots of different monastery sites that included monk cells, churches, chapels and other monastic living quarters all cut out of the rock face of Mount Gareja. It is located in the Khaketi region of Georgia, famous for its vineyards and lies about 60-70 km south-east of Tbilisi, Georgia's capital and right on the border with Azerbaijan. In fact, some parts of the monastery are now in Azerbaijan which has led to some border disputes between the two countries. It was founded in the 6th century BC and was once an important centre for religious study and the arts in Georgia but it fell into decline over the centuries as repeated invasions and raids by the Mongol and Persian armies took their toll. More recently, the Soviet army turned Davit Gareja into an artillery training ground and destroyed several historic churches in the process. 

Davit Gareja marked on the map of the Caucasus regions. Its spelt David Gareji here. The spelling of Georgian place names varied a lot due to problems transliterating from the Georgian alphabet to the Latin one. 

Return to Tbilisi: Accidents, World Cup football and Vake Park

We woke up at a reasonable time for once in our hostel in Yerevan, Armenia and had decided to take a marshrutka to go back to Tbilisi. We'd caught an overnight train to get to Yerevan from Tbilisi but the journey had been too short to really get a decent night's sleep and the border crossing had been annoying so we wanted to go for the cheaper daytime option of the marshrutka bus. The only thing that had been putting us off was the awful driving of people in Armenia and Georgia which made every road journey into a white knuckle ride. The marshrutka was very cheap though, only 6500 drahms per person which is about £10 or $16 each. It was faster than the train too as it took a much more direct route.

The train route from Tbilisi to Yerevan takes a long meandering route around most of the circumference of Armenia before it arrives o the capital city.

Last day in Armenia: Gerghard, Garni and Genocide museum

We got up fairly late as usual on our last day in Armenia and set out for the Armenian Genocide museum by marshrutka (public minibus). It was a very moving museum with a lot of photographs and interesting exhibits about what happened when the ethnically Armenian population were driven out of Turkey by the Ottoman Empire which at that time ruled over Turkey, the Caucasian countries and and most of the Middle East and even parts of north-eastern Africa. The genocide took place during and after World War 1 between 1915 and 1923 and has been generally acknowledged as the first major holocaust of the 20th century. 

Between 1 million and 1.5 million Armenians are estimated to have been killed. The extermination of the Armenian population took place in two stages. First the able-bodied men were murdered or worked to death through forced labour then the women, children, elderly and sick were led on death marches into the Syrian dessert and left there with no food or shelter. Many died on the way to the dessert and still more died of starvation and disease once they arrived. Other Christian minorities in the Ottoman Empire were targeted for extermination in a similar way at the this time including the Greeks and the Assyrians. 

The remains of Armenians massacred at Erzinjan. (photo care of Wikipedia)

Echmiadzin, The Armenian Vatican City and Ararat Brandy tour

For our third full day in Armenia, we decided to head to Echmiadzin, the country's holy city where the head of the Armenian Apostolic church resides. Echmiadzin was the capital of Armenia between 180 and 340 AD when the country first converted to Christianity and there are several important churches and a cathedral there.


After the previous day's ultra annoying tour group experience, we decided to stick to using public transport so we headed to Kilikia bus station. We caught an ancient gas powered bus to Echmiadzin. The driver had to get out of the bus and go round the back to start it up! It was a really local bus full of people with metal pails full of vegetables and meat staring curiously at us. It took jut over 30 minutes to slowly trundle to Echmiadzin and the driver only had to restart the engine once on the way.

Gas powered local bus with the engine in  the back. Many of these buses had spare gas cylinders stored on the roof.

Armenia - Monasteries, wine and whinging

We went on a tour of southern Armenia for our second day in the country. We don't usually like taking organised tours but decided to put our prejudices aside and accept the inevitable crowds and annoying tour group members in order to try to see more of the country in a short time. However, the tour turned out to be just as irritating as we'd feared - independent travel really is the way to go!


We were picked up by a Hyur Tours car at 9.40am and shuttled over to the main tour bus in front if their office. As expected, it was full of older, richer tourists. The bus was new and had air con though which felt luxurious after the Georgian marshrutkas. Our tour guide woman then proceeded to bellow at us using a microphone in Armenian, Russian and English about any passing sight that might be of interest (and several that were not) almost constantly for an hour until we made our first stop of the trip at Khor Virap, a monastery. The monastery was pretty interesting and was very near the border with Turkey and had good views of Mount Ararat. It also had a deep hole where Saint Gregory the Illuminator was held captive for 13 years before he managed to convince the Armenian king to convert to Christianity, making Armenia the first Christian country. There was also a second, smaller hole which Rowan climbed down but I'm not sure what that was used for, maybe St. Greg's dog. Neither of us got a chance to climb down the biggest as it was too busy. We did see a French woman having a panic attack after climbing out of it though so it must have been good down there.

Khor Virap monastery.